Textile: The Journal of Cloth and Culture, 2026 (AHCI, Scopus)
This study examines three Ushak carpets from the Ankara Museum of Foundational Works through an integrated analysis of weaving structure and dyestuffs. It aims to address the limited use of scientific dyestuff analysis in the study of Ushak carpets, which have predominantly been examined through stylistic and art historical approaches. The technical aspects of warp, weft, and pile yarns were systematically documented to understand construction methods and material choices. High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) was used to analyze wool samples and identify the dyes used. Results indicated the presence of alizarin and purpurin from madder (Rubia tinctorum L.), ellagic acid and tannins from Aleppo oak (Quercus infectoria Olivier) or Valonia oak (Quercus ithaburensis), and indigotin from indigo (Indigofera tinctoria) or woad (Isatis tinctoria). The exclusive use of natural dyes, together with structural characteristics, suggests that the examined carpets were produced prior to the widespread adoption of synthetic dyes in the late nineteenth century.